Boredaux or Burgundy with that Tuna Sashimi

Another noteworthy sushi shop, Shibucho, resides on a lonely stretch of Beverly Blvd away from the glitter of the fashionable Westside and the sushi heavy Ventura Blvd. The head chef and owner, Shige Kudo, bought the restaurant decades ago from his former employer who operated the original location of Shibucho on Alameda St on the top floor of Yoahan Plaza (now known as Mitsuwa Marketplace) in the heart of Little Tokyo back when people were merely starting to get the idea of what sushi can be. Shige serves all the usual sushi suspects in his almost hidden speakeasy bar reminiscent of bars scattered in back alleys of Tokyo. Shige has a preference for older Bordeaux and Burgundy to go with his sushi so the wine list is comprised of bottles from the 1950s and 1960s ranging in price into the hundreds of dollars. The reserve list is a fun read, which you can pour over if you’re waiting for the rest of your party to arrive. He does offer sake and beer. He only offers an omakase menu to regular customers who he has a trusted relationship with. Shige at times plays with tradition. For instance, he adds olive oil to seared albacore salad and once offered real French foie gras (imported from France) simply sautéed in a pan with pure butter, and possibly a sprinkle or two of salt. The ingredient itself, goose liver, sings without the presence of a sweet or sour sauce to disguise the true flavor of quality food. You would be hard pressed to find that at your neighborhood sushi bar unless you happen to live near the intersection of Beverly and Rampart. Italian and French desserts are offered here from a smooth, intense chocolate mousse to a restrained, light tiramisu. Sometimes a reservation is required for the bar. It’s helpful to note that Shibucho on Beverly remains open until midnight (though used to close at 3 in the morning), so you can get some albacore sushi, tiramisu, and a glass of 1961 Cheval Blanc as a coda to your late nite flick.

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